After the basic framework was completed, I cut out and fitted these 1/16" sheet stock balsa filler "plates" in where the control car, engine gondolas, and the lower vertical fin mounts on the hull so I would have a more sturdy mount surface for these items. The other three fins mount right to longitudinal stringers so I did not have to install filler plates for them. In the picture where I'm holding the hull framework, the control car mounts on the piece closest to the nose. The two pieces in the middle are for the two midships "wing" cars, and the one in the middle behind them is for the aft engine car. The narrow triangular section behind that is the mount area for the lower vertical fin.
After that was done, the framework was gently sanded smooth, getting it ready to apply the two sealer coats of model aircraft dope, so that the tissue paper that I use to cover the frame will grip it better when I apply the third coat as an adhesive to apply the paper, one "gore" at a time. A "gore" is the space in between two immediate neighboring longitudinal stringers.
The image above shows the framework sealed with the two coats of clear coat dope, ready to cover with tissue paper, after it thoroughly dries for 24 hours. Model had "glasshead" pins placed in the nose and tail of it, so it could be placed in my custom made model airship "rotisserie" jig which allows the hull to be rotated at any angle so I can work on it more comfortably as I cover it, and what not.
This bottom image shows the hull, ready to begin covering. It also shows the water transfer decals that I made using. Testors "Print Your Own Decal System", and my computer's printer. All decals made this way, because computer inkjet printer inks will desolve in water, must be sealed with a decal "binder" which seals the print with a waterproof coating, so the decal can be dipped in water to apply to the model.
Jim.
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